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Illustrative garage doors scene — Extension Spring Replacement, Woolwich
Three detached nylon-wheel garage door rollers with steel stems on a work mat. — Garage Door Roller Replacement, Woolwich

Springs · Woolwich

Extension Spring Replacement

A bang like a dropped toolbox came from the garage last night.

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In plain words

When one extension spring breaks, the other is replaced with it. The two springs were fitted together, have stretched the same number of times and have rusted in the same air, so the survivor is near the end of its life. More importantly, a door balances only when both sides pull equally; a new spring paired with a tired one lifts one corner ahead of the other and twists the door. Fitting a matched pair rated for the door's weight lets the technician set both sides to the same hook position and hand back a door that rises level and holds where it is left.

Sound familiar?

You pulled the red cord to open the door during a power cut and it barely moved. Lifting it took your whole weight, and when you let go it came down hard. It used to float up with one hand.

How the visit goes

Extension Spring Replacement

How the visit goes

Illustrative garage doors scene
Illustrative garage doors scene
  1. Securing the door with the springs slack

    An extension spring is stretched tight when the door is closed and nearly relaxed when the door is fully open, so the first move is to get the door up. The technician pulls the opener's release, raises the door by hand if it will go, and clamps both vertical tracks below the bottom rollers so the door cannot come down. If a broken spring has left the door stuck partway, it is lifted and supported with the weight taken on clamps and props before anything else is handled. With the door held open, the springs, pulleys and hooks can be examined and removed like ordinary hardware, which is the whole reason the sequence begins this way.

  2. Balancing the door by hand

    Balance is judged with the opener still disconnected. The technician lowers the door to the floor, then lifts it: it should rise with modest effort, stay put when let go at about waist height, sit steady when fully open, and come down under control rather than dropping. If it sinks, both springs need a little more stretch and each S-hook is moved one hole to take up cable; if it climbs on its own, one hole the other way. Adjustments are always made in pairs, with the door open and clamped again each time, so the two springs stay equal. Two or three rounds usually settle it.

  3. A clear threshold and an honest opener

    Two habits protect the new springs from the shocks that shorten a spring's life. The first is the floor: a door that comes down on a bin, a bike wheel or a ridge of packed snow stops short while the springs and cables are still pulling, and the jolt can throw a cable off its pulley. Keep the opening clear and scrape the ice ridge off the threshold before running the door in winter. The second is the opener's force setting. It was set for the newly balanced door; if the door ever seems to need more push, that is the springs asking for attention, not a reason to turn the force up.

Extension Spring Replacement

In the van

  • Track clamps or locking pliers

  • Door-weighing scale

  • Garage-door spray lubricant

  • S-hooks and adjusting clips

  • Pulleys (sheaves) and forks

Illustrative garage doors scene

Extension Spring Replacement

What affects the quote

  1. One spring per side or two

    Heavier doors sometimes carry a pair of springs on each side rather than one. Four springs, four containment cables and the extra setting time show as their own lines.

  2. Converting to torsion instead

    Where the garage has the headroom, some owners take the opportunity to move to a torsion system. That is a different job with different hardware and is quoted as its own option.

  3. Working room around the springs

    Shelving, a stored canoe or a car parked under the tracks slows the work along the horizontal run. Clearing the sides of the garage beforehand keeps the time on the quote short.

What to have ready

  • Is a car parked inside that will need to come out first?
  • Is the door closed, fully open, or stuck partway?
  • Has insulation, glass or a wood facing been added to the door?
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Extension Spring Replacement: questions

Questions
Will the lift cables be changed as well?

They are inspected every time and changed when they show fraying, rust at the bottom loop, or a kink from having jumped a pulley. Cables and springs are generally the same age, and with the door already open and the springs off, fitting new cables adds little to the visit. Bright, tight strands with clean loops can stay and are simply re-routed over the pulleys and set to the new springs.

What does the paint colour on the end of the spring mean?

Manufacturers dab a colour on the end coil to indicate the spring's weight rating, which is a handy starting point. It is not the final word: a faded or repainted end coil tells you little, and the pair on an older door may have been a near match rather than the right one. The technician treats the colour as a hint and confirms the rating from the door's measured weight and the spring's own dimensions.

Would a stronger spring make the door easier to lift?

Not in a useful way. The aim is a spring that matches the door's weight, so the door holds still wherever you leave it. A spring rated above that weight pulls the door up on its own, makes it hard to close, and leans on the opener to hold it down. A spring rated below lets it sink. Matched springs, set to the same hook position, give the light, even feel you want.

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